Flight of Gods 35. Devachirai (Sacred Groves)

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Forests have been the lifeline fo tribals and other forest dwelling communitiesr since distant past. Communities have been setting aside certain patches of land or forest dedicated to a deity or village God, protected and worshipped called Devachirai in Goa. Goa had an extensive distribution of the sacred groves and few have survived till today. Most of the sacred groves that have survived are in Sattari and Sanguem talukas. Ranging in size from less than a hectare to many hectares, sacred groves are often the only remaining haven for plants and animals in areas with destruction of their natural habitat. Ajobachi Rai in Sattari taluka is the largest sacred grove in Goa spread over 10 ha.

Icons worshipped in a sacred grove in Sattari - photo by Mohan Pai

Devachirai or the Sacred Groves are more or less pockets of climax vegetation preserved on religious grounds. Several such pockets are located in remote tribal areas of the Western Ghats and Goa has quite a number.The ’protection’ tradition originally forbade any interference with the biota of the grove in any way whatsoever, and not even the leaf litter could be touched. Grazing or hunting was not allowed within the grove and hence they represented a sample of vegetation in its climax state. In view of the protection and optimum growth condition prevailing in the sacred groves some arboreal species exhibit their grandeur and become a fascinating sight. Earlier, human beings relied on sacred groves for the supply of various medicinal plants, shrubs and creepers. In order to pluck these plants they had to perform some rituals to please the forest God. Even today, in the remotest parts of Goa, locals who are still far away from any rural health services, go to these sacred groves for herbal medicines.

In many villages, locals believe that the forest Goa or spirit would get offended if the trees are cut, flowers or fruits are plucked or if the animals inside the sacred forest are harassed or killed. That is why these groves are not molested and are well preserved. The sacred groves are traditional institutions, deeply involved in the conservation of not only few individual species in isolation but also the ecosystems at large.Niramkarachi Rai - the sacred grove at Nanode, Sattari - photo by Mohan Pai

Bambar

The Sacred Grove located at Bambar in Satari Taluka is the abode of rare medical plants. This forbidden spot is a refuge for a unique forest community and it is classified as Myristica Swamp Forests having great ecological significance. The trees have unusal aerial roots which are analogous to pneumatophores or stilt roots of mangrove forests. The area of the grows is about 0.25 ha of undulating terrain and is situated 11 kms from the Goa - Karnataka border.Historical PerspectiveThis grove is known to exist for the last 250 years and the reigning deity is the God ‘Nirankar’, who is worshipped by the people of three villages namely Maloli, Ustem and Nanode. Their deep rooted religious belief strengthened by the cult of nature worship, has ensured that the vegetation remained more or less untouched for the last 40 to 50 years.People of these three villages used to assemble at the site during the years gone by to venerate the Lord “Nirankar” who is considered the ‘Rakhandar’ (Protector) of these villages. After the sacrifice, the ritual is performed and food is cooked, but only the male members eat the preparation. These customs and rituals have now been neglected due to the changing life style of the people and other pre-occupation for their material gains.VegetationThe natural vegetation of the area is of tropical hill forest dominated by evergreen broad leaved species. The floral composition of the grave shows the presence of the following plant species: Alstonia scholaris, Artocarpus hirsuta, Calamus thwaitesii, Calophyllum inophyllum, Combretum sp., Canarium strictum, Holigarna arnottiana, Holigarna grahamii, Hydnocarpus laurifolia, Lophopetalum wightianum, Machilus macrantha, Myristica malabarica, Piper nigrum, Stereospermum personatum, Osbeckia sp, Tetrameles nudiflora, etc. In addition, there are several species of algae, lichens, epiphytes and under growth plants which are yet to be identified.One of the unique features of the trees in this habitat is the presence of numerous aerial roots in the shape of “U” arching over the mud. These roots resemble a knee when the leg is folded. The ecological significance of these peculiar knee roots is an adaptation or reaction to overcome environmental stress. Presumably this is two fold - one in which the plants overcome poor anchorage in a soft bed; and two ensuring root aeration when oxygen is not available in the soil. In either case it is analogous to the adaptations found in mangroves. The knee roots suggest the presence of an underground stream creating conditions similar to those of mangrove swamps.
Bambar is located approximately 60 kms. from Panaji on the Valpoi-Nanode road and is easily accessible.

Nirancarachi Rai

It is an unique Micro-climatic ecosystem with Myristica Swamp forests located at Nanoda in Sattari taluka. It covers 0.2ha. Area duly protected from all the encroachments and disturbances by fence. It has characteristic of swamp forests, which is found at present only in Kerala State. Nirancarachi Rai is a sacred grove which is comprising of about 19 different evergreen species and has the roots protruding out gaining inverted ‘U’ shaped which is a characteristic of myristica swamp forests. The place is also of great educational interest and worth seeing and studying the phenomena of nature. From Valpoi 15Kms Via Nagargao-Sattari.

List of the Sacred Groves in Goa:

Rashtroli Pernem Gavadewada (Mandrem), Kurlyachi wadi Pernem, VarkhandShevro Bicholim, Kharpal, Sidhdachirai Bicholim Vadawal, Ajobachirai Sattari Keri, Maulichirai Sattari Vagheri (Keri), Pishyachirai Sattari Keri, Sidhdachirai Sattari Morle, Devachirai Sattari Saleli (Onda)Devachirai Sattari Nagve, Holayechirai Sattari Caranzol, Ajobachitali Sattari Brahmakarmali, Devachirai Sattari Koparde, Dhupachirai Sattari Derode, Devachirai Sattari Satre, Poshyachirai Sattari Bondir, Devachirai Sattari Shelop – Khurd, Devachirai Sattari Surla, Nirankarachirai Sattari Bambar–Nanode, Devachirai Sattari Thane, Devachirai Sattari Pali, Devachirai Sattari Shel – Melavali, Devachirai Sattari Shiranguli, Devachirai Sattari Assodde, Devachirai Sattari Malpona, Devachirai Sattari Shirsode, Devalachemol Sattari Dabe, Devachirai Sattari Bhironde, Devachirai Sattari Golauli, Devachirai Sattari Mauxi, Devachirai Sattari Ivre – Budruk, Devachirai Sattari Ivre – Khurd, Devachirai Sattari Pendral, Avali Dano Canacona Cotigao,

Kuske Dano, Canacona, Cotigao, Badde Dano Canacona Cotigao, Paikapann Sanguem, NeturlimPaikapann Sanguem, SalginiPaikapann Sanguem, KumbhariPaikapann Sanguem, Bhati, Devadongor Sanguem, RivonVasantagal Sanguem, Rivon Patryatali Devrai Sanguem Rivon, Vaghryapann Sanguem, Rivon, Paikapann Quepem, MorpillaPaikapann Quepem, CazurBetalapann Quepem Barce, Vaghryapann Quepem Barce, Gadgyapann Quepem Barce, Siddhmaddi Quepem Barce, Shivapann Quepem Barce, Devipann Quepem Barce, Mahadevapann Quepem Barce, Durgadevipann Quepem Gokulde, Devatipann Quepem Bennudde.

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The Flight of Gods 34. Gomanteshwar Temple, Brahmapuri

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Sri Gomanteshwar Temple

Brahmapuri (Old Goa)

photo by Mohan Pai

The temple of Shri Gomantadev, Goveshwar or Gomanteshwar situated at Brahmapuri near Old Goa is associated with Madhav Mantri, the famous General and Governor of Vijayanagar Empire in the 14th century AD.
Brahmapuri was established in the 14th century and probably became a great seat of learning and riligious power under the patronage of Vijayanagar kings.
It is believed that Madhav Mantri restored the temple and reinstalled the idol of Shri Gomanteshwar and constructed a ritual bathing tank at Brahmapuri. The remnants of the tank still exist is and called Madhav Tirtha.

photo by Mohan Pai

Brahmapuri is located near Ela farm at Old Goa and is linked to the town by a kuchcha road. Mahadev was worshipped during the days of Kadamba kingdom in Goa. The Portuguese damaged the temple and built the Church of Santissimo Trinidade (the most Holy Trinity) in the 16th century. The shrine, rebuilt after the Inquisition, was ruined again by the Portuguese in 1779 by the Viceroy Dom Frederico Guilherme de Souza. Originally built in the 14th century, the temple was once again rebuilt in 1947 AD.

photo by Mohan Pai

Mahashivratri is celebrated with much religious fervour. This is a protected heritage site, where restoration work is going on.

The Flight of Gods 33. Mahalakshmi Temple, Panaji

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Sri Mahalakshmi Temple

Panaji

The Temple Entance

This Temple is located in the city of Panaji, off Dada Vaidhya road at the Altinho foothill. It was the first Hindu temple allowed to be built by the Portuguese in Goa after 300 years after bitter opposition. It was approved by the Portuguese authorities in 1818 after a long delay and built subsequently on contrubutions made by the devotees. It was most recently renovated in 1983. The deity of the temple originally came from the village of Taleigao and was moved to Bicholim in the 16th century to escape Portuguese destruction. For a short while during the approval process for building the temple the deity remained at the house of Mhamai Kamat, near the Idalcao’s palace.

Sabha Mantap - photo by Mohan Pai

The deity is Goddess Mahalakshmi (the Hindu Goddess of Wealth), made of black stone, with four hands and is placed in a silver canopy. This is the peaceful or Satvik form of Devi. According to the Shakti cult (worship of power), Mahalakshmi is the original Goddess who takes forms according to three aspects or gunas viz. Brahma (peaceful, calm form or satva), Vishnu (creative action or rajas) and Shiva (destruction or tamas). The deity originally from Mayem in Bicholim taluka was transferred to the present site.

A brief History of the Temple

This 182 year old temple has a fascinating history. In the 16th century the Havig Brahmins from Karwar-Kumtha areas who lived on alms and charity of others worshipped the Mahalaxmi deity and wherever they went in search of alms they carried this deity along. In the 16th century, they moved to Goa along with this diety and reached Taleigo village of which Panjim was then a mere ward, along the river Gomati (Mandovi). The Havig Brahmins whose whole day was spent begging for alms had sought shelter in the precincts of the Vetal temple of Taleigao. But when they learnt of the conversion policy of the Portuguese, fearing desecration of their revered Mahalakshmi idol made of marble, they moved away from Taleigao and as they were moving on they found a horse stable which actually belonged to the Portuguese government.
A gentleman called Raghavendra Kamat Mhamai who worked for the Portuguese military found that this place selected by the Havig Brahmins to hide their deity was unsafe and hence moved it to his palatial house opposite the Adilshahi palace (Secretariat) in the heart of Panjim city. Still fearing for the safety and security of the deity, he moved it to Mayem village of the Bicholim Taluka where it remained till 1817.
Sometime later in 1817, Narayan Kamat Mhamai of Panaji dreamt of the deity and the next day itself he along with others went to Mayem and brought the diety to Panjim and hid it at a place where stands the People's High School today. That corner at the People's High School is still venerated where the deity was kept hidden.
He later moved it to his house and started worshipping it there. He expressed his desire to a friend Mr. Sinari of building a temple to consecrate this diety. They seeked the permission of the liberal Portuguese governor Conde De Rio Pardo, which was granted to them on 2nd July 1818.
On 10 July 1818, the deity was consecrated there and the foundation stone of the Mahalakshmi temple was laid. Refusing to be cowed down by the heavy monsoon downpours of Goa, the pious devotees led by the late Shri Narayan Kumar Mhamai, Mr. Sinari and others consecrated the Mahalakshmimi deity in the backyard of Panjim city on 10 July 1818.

By 1819, the temple was completed. The original deity today lies in a small box in the rear wall of the temple which faces the present day main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi. The magnificent subhamandap of the temple has been added later and today the recently completed new building of the temple stands proudly as a superb addition to the landmarks of Panjim city.
The Havig Brahmins whose whole day was spent begging for alms had sought shelter in the precincts of the Vetal temple of Taleigao. But when they learnt of the conversion policy of the Portuguese, fearing desecration of their revered Mahalakshmi idol made of marble, they moved away from Taleigao and as they were moving on they found a horse stable which actually belonged to the Portuguese government.
A gentleman called Raghavendra Kamat Mhamai who worked for the Portuguese military found that this place selected by the Havig Brahmins to hide their deity was unsafe and hence moved it to his palatial house opposite the Adilshahi palace (Secretariat) in the heart of Panjim city. Still fearing for the safety and security of the deity, he moved it to Mayem village of the Bicholim Taluka where it remained till 1817.
Sometime later in 1817, Narayan Kamat Mhamai of Panaji dreamt of the deity and the next day itself he along with others went to Mayem and brought the diety to Panjim and hid it at a place where stands the People's High School today. That corner at the People's High School is still venerated where the deity was kept hidden.
He later moved it to his house and started worshipping it there. He expressed his desire to a friend Mr. Sinari of building a temple to consecrate this diety. They seeked the permission of the liberal Portuguese governor Conde De Rio Pardo, which was granted to them on 2nd July 1818.
On 10 July 1818, the deity was consecrated there and the foundation stone of the Mahalakshmi temple was laid. Refusing to be cowed down by the heavy monsoon downpours of Goa, the pious devotees led by the late Shri Narayan Kumar Mhamai, Mr. Sinari and others consecrated the Mahalakshmimi deity in the backyard of Panjim city on 10 July 1818.
By 1819, the temple was completed. The original deity today lies in a small box in the rear wall of the temple which faces the present day main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi. The magnificent subhamandap of the temple has been added later and today the recently completed new building of the temple stands proudly as a superb addition to the landmarks of Panjim city.
Flower shops at the temple